“Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex, but it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.” –Albert Einstein

This year Camp Denali celebrates our 60^th anniversary.  For over half a century we’ve embraced a sense of place on our wide spot on the tundra.  A travel writer recently commented on how the fact that we are “unplugged” is a great hook.  It’s more than that, it’s a entire way of being.  No cell phone service and no internet often make people pause before booking here, but after only a day away from the madness, most have settled, calmed, and more than just relaxing into the new rhythm, they embrace it.  We’ve updated our cabins over the years to make them more comfortable (gone are the days of our guests sleeping in wall tents!), but each still sports hand sewn quilts on the beds and a water spigot outside. Einstein was ahead of his time when he spoke the words above …today’s’ world of constant, unrelenting media and fast paced gadgets are enough to make anyone’s head spin.  Not only should we put them down occasionally, we need to.

We’ve always worked toward giving our guests a chance to experience Denali on more than a superficial level, to foster an understanding of the history, both natural and cultural, of this incredible region. Reading back through a Tundra Telegram (Camp Denali newsletter) from 1960, I came across this:

“When we decided to cut our station wagon trips from three a week to only two, thus lengthening the stay at Camp to a minimum of three nights, we were warned by travel agents that this would cut down our “potential” as most tourists didn’t have time for that long a visit at any one spot in Alaska.  But we took the gamble.  We weren’t seeking “tourists” anyway.   We wanted vacationists looking for an experience in depth. And that, in the main, are the kind who found their way to Camp.”

Today is winter solstice, the first “official” day of winter. It’s a time for a celebration as the darkest days of winter are now almost behind us. More light is on the way! Today sunrise was at 10:45 am and sunset at 3:20 pm. The sun peaks over the mountains for only a couple hours of direct sunlight and then hides again.

Prior to the start of winter, I was most afraid of the lack of sunlight. I was preparing myself for difficulty adjusting to the darkness. But it's amazing how much a body can adapt to change. I have learned to accept it and enjoy the precious light that is received. At lunch yesterday I sat by the window, soaking up the little bit of sunshine that hit my cheek. There is a slant of light in winter that illuminates the mountains in alpenglow. Sunset and sunrise last for hours instead of minutes. While the light may not shine for long in winter, the little that does warms the soul. 

Daylight may open our eyes to the beauty of the earth, but the darkness opens our eyes to the beauty of the universe: the stars, the moon, the planets, and the aurora borealis. Nothing makes me feel smaller than looking at the vast expanse of space. It's a big universe out there, and we are only a small part of it.

Alaska is a land of extremes. In six months, we will cross over to the summer solstice, basking in nearly 24 hours of light. The midnight sun will illuminate the abundant life that thrives in the short intense summer season. I look forward to witnessing that transition.

This holiday season, may you enjoy the light in the world and in each other.

This poem was sent to us by Marlene Ruthen.  Her grandson, Neil Garret Ruthen, wrote it recently reflecting on his stay at North Face Lodge two years ago, when he was twelve.

We hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

Denali
Awakening at the first light of dawn,
breathless with delight  
I stare through the window,
with unbelieving eyes,
for through unveiling curtain of clouds,
natures most treasured jewel
stands for all to see,

I scramble outside,
feeling the
excitement build in my soul
for here I found indescribable beauty,

A gigantic, majestic
behemoth of rock
two towering sky scrapers of shining ice,
gleam with the pinkish glow of early morning light.

I gasp and
take in a breath,
a breath of the crisp spice of conifers,
that warms my body.

I smile at the landscape,
for sharing the secret of natures beauty.