Camp Denali & North Face Lodge

Serene Simplicity

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:42:23 +0000

“Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex, but it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.” –Albert Einstein

This year Camp Denali celebrates our 60^th anniversary. For over half a century we’ve embraced a sense of place on our wide spot on the tundra. A travel writer recently commented on how the fact that we are “unplugged” is a great hook. It’s more than that, it’s a entire way of being. No cell phone service and no internet often make people pause before booking here, but after only a day away from the madness, most have settled, calmed, and more than just relaxing into the new rhythm, they embrace it. We’ve updated our cabins over the years to make them more comfortable (gone are the days of our guests sleeping in wall tents!), but each still sports hand sewn quilts on the beds and a water spigot outside. Einstein was ahead of his time when he spoke the words above …today’s’ world of constant, unrelenting media and fast paced gadgets are enough to make anyone’s head spin. Not only should we put them down occasionally, we need to.

We’ve always worked toward giving our guests a chance to experience Denali on more than a superficial level, to foster an understanding of the history, both natural and cultural, of this incredible region. Reading back through a Tundra Telegram (Camp Denali newsletter) from 1960, I came across this:

“When we decided to cut our station wagon trips from three a week to only two, thus lengthening the stay at Camp to a minimum of three nights, we were warned by travel agents that this would cut down our “potential” as most tourists didn’t have time for that long a visit at any one spot in Alaska. But we took the gamble. We weren’t seeking “tourists” anyway. We wanted vacationists looking for an experience in depth. And that, in the main, are the kind who found their way to Camp.”

A Lesson in Alaska Winters, Part 2: The Darkness

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:53:34 +0000

Today is winter solstice, the first “official” day of winter. It’s a time for a celebration as the darkest days of winter are now almost behind us. More light is on the way! Today sunrise was at 10:45 am and sunset at 3:20 pm. The sun peaks over the mountains for only a couple hours of direct sunlight and then hides again.

Prior to the start of winter, I was most afraid of the lack of sunlight. I was preparing myself for difficulty adjusting to the darkness. But it's amazing how much a body can adapt to change. I have learned to accept it and enjoy the precious light that is received. At lunch yesterday I sat by the window, soaking up the little bit of sunshine that hit my cheek. There is a slant of light in winter that illuminates the mountains in alpenglow. Sunset and sunrise last for hours instead of minutes. While the light may not shine for long in winter, the little that does warms the soul.

Daylight may open our eyes to the beauty of the earth, but the darkness opens our eyes to the beauty of the universe: the stars, the moon, the planets, and the aurora borealis. Nothing makes me feel smaller than looking at the vast expanse of space. It's a big universe out there, and we are only a small part of it.

Alaska is a land of extremes. In six months, we will cross over to the summer solstice, basking in nearly 24 hours of light. The midnight sun will illuminate the abundant life that thrives in the short intense summer season. I look forward to witnessing that transition.

This holiday season, may you enjoy the light in the world and in each other.

A Touch of Poetry

Sat, 10 Dec 2011 00:33:36 +0000

This poem was sent to us by Marlene Ruthen. Her grandson, Neil Garret Ruthen, wrote it recently reflecting on his stay at North Face Lodge two years ago, when he was twelve.

We hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

Denali
Awakening at the first light of dawn,
breathless with delight
I stare through the window,
with unbelieving eyes,
for through unveiling curtain of clouds,
natures most treasured jewel
stands for all to see,

I scramble outside,
feeling the
excitement build in my soul
for here I found indescribable beauty,

A gigantic, majestic
behemoth of rock
two towering sky scrapers of shining ice,
gleam with the pinkish glow of early morning light.

I gasp and
take in a breath,
a breath of the crisp spice of conifers,
that warms my body.

I smile at the landscape,
for sharing the secret of natures beauty.

A Lesson in Alaska Winters, Part 1

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 17:32:40 +0000

When it comes to winters in Alaska, I have a steep learning curve ahead of me. As a new staff member at Camp Denali and North Face Lodge this summer, I have experienced the glory of summer, but have yet to experience winter. All I knew of winters in Alaska is that they could be long, cold, and dark. So when I was lucky enough to join the hearty year round staff of six at Camp Denali this fall, I knew I’d have to learn quickly and prepare for the big change.

The last couple months, I have been moving my car and personal items up from the "Lower 48," and preparing for the challenges and rewards of winter. Equipping myself with warm clothes, blankets, a winter ready car, and a lot of hobbies to keep me occupied. I do have one thing on my side: I already know the cold and dark. I have experienced similar (although not as harsh) winters in both Montana and Minnesota, so it shouldn't be a complete shock to the system.

While the initial thought of winter can be intimidating, dig a little deeper and you will discover the beauty of winter: the sunsets, the aurora, the snow, the adventures, and the silence. After the busy summer and fall I think I am now ready for the quiet of winter.

Recently, the daylight has been dwindling rapidly and the temperatures have been dropping. Last night I walked home from work in a chilly and dark -8 Degrees F, the waxing moon was lighting up the snow on the ground, making it a magical moonlit winter walk. Painter Rockwell Kent has said of winter in Alaska, it a time when “Nothing really happens-but in the quietness the soul expands.” I can't imagine a better place to seek the silence and solitude of winter than at the doorstep of Denali.

Reflections on Summer...and Winter

Thu, 20 Oct 2011 16:32:47 +0000

Alaska is sometimes said to have two seasons…pick your favorite vocabulary words of the following for those two; the green and the white time, the light and the dark, summer and winter. Though we would disagree with this (who among you has seen Dryas flowers poking their heads though springtime snow or Denali’s vibrant, albeit brief, autumnal colors?), I can understand the sentiment. Spring comes late and summer ends early. Our leaves were gone by mid-September, and today a fluffy 4” of snow lies on the ground as the sun peeks its head off to the southwest at noon. Four year old Danika Hamm, Simon and Jenna’s precocious daughter, commented last winter how she saw the sun rising in a particular direction from their house, so that “That way must be East!.” I believe it must have broke Jenna’s heart to have to explain to her brilliant child that here, at 63° N latitude, the sun actually rises in the south and sets in the south in mid-winter.

Although it’s not yet the heart of winter, today I went for a walk in the snow. I enjoyed seeing the Labrador tea covered in its white blanket, and already felt nostalgic for the first June day I laid down with my hiking group out at Camp Denali and North Face Lodge and smelt its fragrance; a mixture of lemon and bergamot, in my olfactory world. The blueberries which filled my morning smoothie were hand picked in July and August on the tundra benches around Camp Denali, making me already wistful of days where I could pick for hours into the late northern summer evenings, filled with so much light. We’ve boarded up the lodges for the season, buttoning them up to protect against winters elements and any curious critters who may be about. But as I sit here contemplating the snow, and if I should already start cleaning up my skis for winter, I do feel the pull of summer and Camp Denali, with its midnight sun, bounding caribou, boundless hiking, flowers, birds, and berries, tugging at my heart.

The Way Autumn Comes

Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:06:19 +0000

On August 7^th we awoke to a cold rain, which by breakfast time had turned to snow. Though it lingered only a few hours in even the higher passes of the Park Road (such as where we hiked in the Highway Pass area at just under 4000’), we certainly were all reminded of Jack Frost’s cool breath upon us. The moderate hike I was leading for the day was thrilled to see all four seasons within one day….from a white morning to the snow melting back and revealing some lingering spring wildflowers, then some sunshine for a summery day, and finally a glimpse at early fall colors amongst the sedges and dwarf birches. It pulls at my heart strings a little to see the Whitish Gentians, which are the last of our summer wildflowers to begin their blooms. The fireweed is going to seed as well, another sure sign that the season of summer is fully over. And in its stead gallops autumn, with its crescendo of reds, oranges, yellows, and chartreuse greens. Last week the first sandhill cranes were heard by our guides Katie and Drew while hiking on one of the local ridges. They are making their way southward from their nesting grounds in the arctic. The blueberries and currants are ripe, and soon we’ll have lingonberries. Our staff spends every free bit of time we have collecting berries, then in our kitchens we turn them into delectable jams and syrups to be enjoyed next summer on our French toast and lunchline spreads. We’re quickly losing our daylight (six minutes less than yesterday!) and stars and aurora sightings are now a possibility. When you lie down among the tundra, peering at the intricate reds and oranges, please inhale the fragrance of autumn, and savor the last of the summer days.

Moose in the Pond

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 21:25:46 +0000

It’s mid-summer and moose have come to the ponds. Through July and August, they supplement their willow diet with pondweed. It contains more sodium than other plants, and the minerals help them grow their antlers, produce milk and buff their coats.

The moose crave this stuff, and of all the places to see a moose, there’s no greater treat than finding one in a pond. For starters, they’re hard to miss. At ½ a ton, the Alaskan moose is the largest moose in the world, and when they’re smack-dab in the middle of a pond, a sighting is fail proof.

We’ve been seeing moose in the kettle ponds between mile 81 and Wonder Lake. There have been cows of all ages—sub-adults with sleek coats, and older ones with an assortment of scars. We’ve seen cows with twin calves, and a pair of bulls sizing up the competition before the fall rut.

Just last week, early in the morning, our resident young male came down to wade into Nugget Pond, a sure sign that mid-summer is upon us.

Kristen's Romanesco

Sat, 09 Jul 2011 00:01:50 +0000

It’s summer! And I am relishing the fact that I don’t have to come up with any breakfast, lunch or dinner meals for another two months. This is a supremely wonderful thing for a mom of two toddlers.

One of my favorite foods has to be a delicious sandwich spread from one of our returning dinner cooks, Kristen. Available on our guest lunchline, I use the romanesco instead of mayonnaise or mustard and make my sandwich per usual—home-roasted turkey, jack cheese, fresh lettuce or cucumber slices from our greenhouse, some home-roasted vegetables or a couple slices of fresh tomato. The result is a highly un-usual and very delicious sandwich. The romanesco adds a mysterious and flavorful richness that pairs well with any savory meat and/or cheese combination on a sandwich.

This recipe was quite popular with our guests last summer, a handful of whom requested that we email them the recipe. I am terribly ashamed that I am only now getting around to typing it up! Better late than never, right?

Puree in food processor:

1 cup toasted almonds

2/3 cup lightly oiled and toasted panko bread crumbs

1 clove garlic

1 guajio, chipotle, or other smoky-flavored pepper (roasted, soaked in hot water for a few minutes and seeded)

¼ teaspoon roasted jalapeno pepper (optional)

Add and puree again:

2-3 roasted red peppers

3-4 roasted cherry tomatoes

a few sprigs of picked thyme

lemon juice to taste

salt to taste

Keeps well refrigerated. Spread thinly (or not so thinly) on both sides of your sandwich. Yum!

And did I say greenhouse cucumbers? Yes, we have loads of them. A summer gazpacho primarily composed of cucumbers is already on the weekly dinner menu as a starter. Fresh pickles or shaved cucumber and fennel salad with creamy dill dressing anyone? Please email us your favorite cucumber recipes from your overflowing garden or greenhouse.

Happy summer and bon appétit!

Opening Day

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 17:26:47 +0000

It's a clear morning here at Camp Denali, sun shines brilliantly, staff members bustle about carrying baskets of last-minute cleaning supplies, cooks produce mouth-watering aromas that waft on the crisp air, flowers bloom cheerfully from hanging baskets...and, out grazing in Nugget Pond--rippling the reflection of Mt. McKinley--are the first moose cow and calf of the season. And on Opening Day!

Serendipity.

Simon sent out a CB message calling attention to the presence of our feeding fauna, and those bustling staff members, the busy cooks, even our four staff children all gathered on the lawn, stopping, quieting, to observe.

Everyone here agrees that we live in an extraordinary place, but on mornings like this with such surprising and pleasing moments just happening, suddenly there...well, the extraordinary becomes exhilarating.

All Wings Lead North

Fri, 13 May 2011 00:59:55 +0000

Yesterday we awoke to nearly 2” of snow at our winter office near the park entrance. There was even more snow on the ground in Kantishna, where our opening crew is currently at the lodges. Such is our fickle pre-spring!

But we do continue to see new birds daily, and even as the snow melts around us, summer’s tell-tail signs abound. Yesterday, while walking down to a local pond with the aim of glassing for my favorite avifauna, ducks, I was surprised to hear the trilling, metallic call of a Rusty Blackbird. At least two were jumping from one dried sedge to the next. This uniformly black bird with piercing yellow eyes has declined by 85-99% over the past 40 years for unknown reasons. It winters in the eastern US and undergoes a transcontinental migration to its summer breeding range in wetlands across Alaska and Canada.

Many Alaskan ecosystems, and certainly Denali, are unique in that they are still “complete,” meaning there are virtually no species that have been eliminated or introduced. We have very few species that are listed as endangered, and indeed, with the removal of wolves from the list, no endangered mammals. But many bird species in the park are on the red-list for Audubon’s Alaska Watchlist, including Rusty Blackbird, Varied Thrush, Olive-sided Flycatcher, and Blackpoll Warbler, all of which are estimated to be declining by about 3% annually. Denali still harbors the specific habitats these birds need, but summer habitat constitutes only half of the story. All these species winter in other locations, mostly in South America, where their wintering grounds are threatened by deforestation and expansion or agriculture.

These birds are truly a wonder. The Blackpoll Warbler, for instance, migrates 1,800 miles in one flight across the Gulf of Mexico each year, unbelievable for a bird whose weight totals about four pennies! Many of Denali’s songbirds are still winging their way north. The few species that have landed, exhausted from their journeys, will take a few days to re-provision themselves with what seeds and insects they can find beneath our new snow. Next, the males begin to set up their breeding territories, and, of course, sing their hearts out. How we welcome the return of the morning songbird chorus.

Visit the National Audubon Society to learn more about these amazing birds and how you can help in conservation efforts. And consider coming to visit Camp Denali this early June, our prime birding time. We still have openings for our four night session beginning June 6^th, when we will host Stan Senner. Stan is former executive director of Audubon Alaska and is currently working with the Ocean Conservancy in the Louisiana Gulf. Join us as we scout the tundra and marshes for these and other remarkable once-in-a-lifetime birds.

Mention this blog post for 20% off the June 6th session at Camp Denali!